Lab 10 - Save the pixels

Lab 6 - HDR - Higher Dynamic Range

Normal Developed

16 Bit HDR +/- 3 stops

32 Bit HDR +/- 6 stops

Lab 5 : Histograms

Histograms

High-key scene

Low-key scene

Scene with variety of tones

a.     According to the histogram, where do most of the pixels in your high key image fall (left or right on the histogram)

Most of the pixels in my high-key image fall on the right side of my histogram. That means that most of the tones of the picture are white or bright.

b.     Are there any pixels in the high-key image that would not print with detail?

No because there is no clipping. If my picture would of been too bright and there would be some clipping, then that would mean I'm losing detail.

c.     According to the histogram, where do most of the pixels in your low-key image fall (left or right on the histogram)

Most of the pixels in my low-key image fall on the left side of my histogram. That means that most of the tones of the picture are black or dark.

d.     Are there any pixels in the low-key image that would not print with detail?

No because there is no clipping, but if there was some, then that would mean that we would start losing detail in the blacks.

e.     According to the histogram, where do most of the pixels in your varied tones image fall (left or right on the histogram)

Most of the pixels in my varied tones image are in the middle.

f.      Are there any pixels in the varied tones image that would not print with detail?

No because normally when most of the pixels of your image are in the middle of the histogram, that means that your picture is well exposed and that you are not losing any detail.

g.     Considering the information on the histogram, do you feel your camera is properly exposing the high key and low-key scenes? Explain your answer

Yes, because I did not see any clipping on my histograms. That means that my camera did a good job to not over or underexposed too much my picture.

h.     Which histogram shows the most dynamic range?

The varied tones one. It's well exposed, most of the pixels are in the middle.

Assignment 1 : Creative use of Shutter and Aperture

Deep DOF

Shallow DOF

Frozen motion

Blurred motion

Lab 4 : Lens Depth Distortion

Lens Depth Distortion

Telephoto

55 mm

- Camera approx. 3 meters away from the objects

- We can see on the picture that there is no distortion

- Everything looks more flat/compacted

Wide Angle

18 mm

- Camera approx. 1 meter away from the objects

- We can see that the objects on the table are distorted and stretched.
- The table, seamless, wall & ceiling also look a bit distorted
- We see too much of the background in the picture

Wide Angle

18 mm

- Camera approx. 1 meter away from the subjects

- We can see that the lockers go really farther behind (they look stretched)
- Subjects are distorted and they look as tall as the lockers

Telephoto

55 mm

- Camera approx. 4 meters away from the subjects

- Subjects look no longer distorted and stretched

- Lockers no longer go really far behind them

- Image looks flatter

  The Take Away ( i.e. what you learned from this)

          - what happens to the width of the background when you go from WA to tele?

It becomes more compacted, you're not gonna see as much things in your frame.

          - what happens to the distance between the background  & subject?

With the telephoto, the background seems to be closer to the subject and with the wide angle, it seems to be farther away.

          - what happens to the subjects themselves in terms of expansion & contraction (for

            the width) as well as compaction and enlargement (for front to back)?

The subjects become flatter and compressed.

When they are shot with the WA, they are distorted.

  Scenario: imagine that you're shooting a model (full body) against a seamless. Your

  framing of the model is what you want but the edges (and beyond) of the seamless are

  visible in your frame. You don't want to move the model back towards the seamless and  

  you don't want to have to retouch out the seamless edges. Applying what you learned

  from this exercise today, what's the solution using just your camera & lens? 

I would use the telephoto and then just back off till my subject fills my camera's frame.

Lab 3 : Noise Reduction & WB

White Balance

White balance : Auto White Balance

ISO 200 f/8 1/4 seconds

This shot was taken with the auto white balance preset. The camera tries to match the colours of the picture with the lightening of the environment.

White balance : Shade

ISO 200 f/8 1/5 seconds

This shot was taken with the shade preset. We can see that there is not a very big difference with the first picture taken in AWB. The only thing is that this picture has a lot more yellow tones (warmer).

White balance : Fluorescent

ISO 200 f/8 1/5 seconds

This shot was taken with the fluorescent preset. We can see that my picture looks like it has a blue/purple colour cast on it. 

Wrong WB : Tungsten light

ISO 200 f/8 1/5 seconds

This shot was taken with the wrong white balance on purpose. The tungsten light preset made my picture look very blue and cold. It does not look natural at all. 

Noise Reduction

#1

Standard

ISO 3200 f/9 1/400 seconds

Low 

ISO 3200 f/9 1/400 seconds

Strong

ISO 3200 f/9 1/400 seconds

#2

Standard

ISO 800 f/11 1/80 seconds

Low

ISO 800 f/11 1/80 seconds

Strong

ISO 800 f/11 1/80 seconds

#3

Standard

ISO 100 f/11 1/4 seconds

Low

ISO 100 f/11 1/4 seconds

Strong

ISO 100 f/11 1/4 seconds


I find that my in-camera noise reduction really did a good job. I could notice a difference in my pictures. I think that the best noise reduction setting of the three that I have on my camera would be Standard. I feel like using this setting made my pictures softer without really losing much detail and sharpness.

Lab 1 : Shutter Speed